Thursday 21 July 2016

Day 4 in Schleswig Holstein, and off to Lübeck, famous for its Niedregger Marzipan.

 Hamburg station seen through the trees from a wine bar!

This a quick write up, as once again, I am behind with the news.  I was out in Köthen all day on Tuesday, and on Wednesday it was so hot here, that I didn't feel like doing much of anything really, least of all trying to concentrate on blog writing.   Correlating the photos, text and information takes me ages, sometimes more than ages, so I need quiet mornings to apply myself to the job. 
 
 The Holsten Gate, one of the main entrances to the medieval city of Lübeck.

We had a snack breakfast at the station and then caught the train to Lübeck, for the hour´s journey to the city.   The town centre is only a short walk from the station, and we had to pass through the above medieval gateway to the city, the very famous image of the Holsten Gate, used on all the advertising for holidays in Lübeck.  It is brick built, like so many of the other buildings here, where no stone was easily available for construction.

The city is on the "European Route of Gothic Brick Trail," which includes Lüneburg, Strahsund, Schleswig and many other north German cities I have visited.  The link below provides more information.

Brick Gothic treasures and masterpieces - Germany
www.germany.travel/.../european-route-of-brick-gothic.html
The 1500 km European Route of Brick Gothic connects several countries along the Baltic Sea including Denmark, Poland and Germany, and takes visitors on a


 Holsten Gate, built entirely of bricks.

Holstentor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holsten_gate
The Holsten Gate ("Holstein Tor", later "Holstentor") is a city gate marking off the western boundary of the old centre of the Hanseatic city of Lübeck.
 
 
 The city side of the gateway, with some superb brickwork.

Some of the bricks are glazed, which adds an interesting texture to the surfaces.

 Old brick built warehouses on the bank of the River Trave.

We sat in a cafe opposite these warehouses and drank a beer, and then returned in the late afternoon to a pizza restaurant with the same view.

 A part marzipan galleon in the Niedregger Marzipan Shop.

As you can imagine, the shop was crowded, and the queues for the tills were so long, we decided not to linger there for long.  I wish I had bought something, but like all visits, it is not possible to see everything in detail.  The link below gives the history of marzipan making in Lübeck.

A History of marzipan - Niederegger Lübeck
www.niederegger.de/World-of-Marzipan/A-History-of-marzipan
A History of marzipan. My name is Johann Georg Niederegger. This is the story of marzipan. I want to tell it to anyone who wants to hear it.


 St Mary´s Church.

My friend JS Bach visited this church to listen to Dieterich Buxtehude play the organ.   From 1668 he was the organist here for many years,  and when he was due to retire, historians believe that Bach was interested in taking over the position.  In those days a new organist was expected to marry the daughter of the previous organist, and Bach at this time was only 20 years old.   Buxtehude´s daughter was 30, and this is probably the reason why Bach did not apply for the position!

Dieterich Buxtehude - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dietrich_Büxtehude
Buxtehude's last post, from 1668, was at the Marienkirche, Lübeck which had two organs, a large one for big services and a small one for devotionals and ...
 
 The decorated ceiling and high altar in St Mary´s Church.
 
 Melted bells, which fell from the collapsed church tower after bombing my British planes in August 1944.
 
 
 Memorial to Dieterich Buxtehude, the famous church organist of St Mary´s Church.

 One man with a Mr Punch swazzle in his mouth, and two puppets either side.

This piece of street entertainment counts as the most interesting piece of entertainment I have ever seen.   The man in the middle tweeted through a swazzle, the device used in Punch and Judy entertainment for children.   He produced intonated sounds as people walked passed, such as wolf whistles, sympathetic, loving sounds to little children, and he tweeted really cross sounds when passersby ignored him.    He was so amusing, and whilst he twittled on, he operated the two little heads on either side, each responding to and agreeing with what he said, as if they were separate beings.   I hope you follow what I mean here.

I gave him some money, and asked if he could tweet his message again in English.  He obliged with the same sounds of course,  and I said many thanks for the best piece of street entertainment I have ever seen.   We three stood entranced for what seemed ages as he entertained the crowds.

 


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