Sunday 30 June 2013

Luxury Goods and Duke Carl 1 of Braunschweig.

The weather has been horrible this week, with a cold wind blowing most of the time, an overcast sky, and on Saturday to end the week, a day of fine drizzle and a temperature of only 13c.  I'm not one to feel particularly down about the weather, but this week did demand a certain amount of "get up and go" on my part.  I was tempted at times to stay in the warmth of my flat, read a good book, and watch the two excellent news channels, that have subtitles constantly repeating themselves underneath the pictures,  and which are excellent for gathering new vocabulary.  An unknown word will keep appearing, so eventually I have to look it up on my trusty translator, find the meaning, and then have it reinforced into my long term memory by its constant repetition.  All very helpful,  thank you N24 and NDR Tagesschau.

Saturday's morning drizzle made no attempt to stop, so I caught the bus into town (the tram tracks are being renovated for the next five weeks, so no trams) and visited the "Städtisches Museum" to see an exhibition about Duke Carl 1 of Braunschweig (1713-1780) and his improvements to the city, after he moved his court from Wolfenbüttel to Braunschweig.   His court and the Elite demanded the production of luxury goods from local established craftsmen, and from those who arrived in the city to satisfy that demand.   

There was a thriving porcelain factory here in the 18th century, producing wares that rivalled the more famous porcelain produced in Meißen.   The family concern of "Stobwasser" produced miniature portraits painted papier-mache, all finished with their own secret, super shiny lacquer,  and the  "Van Selow" family factory produced mosiac patterned furniture.   I have attached photos of the craftmanship that most caught my eye, that of the scenes made of tiny pieces of coral, glass and pearls mosaics.

 The Städtisches museum, with flags flying on a dreary, damp and cold June day.

Coral mosiac table-top. 

The huntsman and his hunting dogs, are portrayed in tiny pearls, coloured glass and coral.  The craftsmanship was wonderful, and with each piece being about the size of pearl barley or a grain of rice, the design must have taken months to complete.

A table-top with a dancing bear.

Poor old bear, thank goodness we no longer find this ill treatment a spectacle.

 A formalised garden scene on a small table-top.

 A fire-screen with an exotic bird in a bush.

Various items decorated in a fine mosaic of pearls, coral and glass. I wanted to stroke the dove, such was the sheen on his mosiac wings and neck.  The exhibition last until October, so I will pay another visit before I leave in late August.



Friday 28 June 2013

"1913 Magnificent Modern Times."

The State Museum left, undergoing a facelift, in the Domplatz.

I'm a few days behind with this blog, so this is news of a visit to the State Museum last Sunday.  The special exhibition about 1913, runs together with the exhibition in the "Schloss Museum," about the marriage of Viktoria, Kaiser Wilhelm ll daughter, with the Duke of Braunschweig and Lüneburg.   There marriage was to be the last gathering together of European monarchy  before the outbreak of WW1, and the collapse of the German monachy in 1918.

"1913 - Brunswick between monarchy and modernity."
 It was a lively time in the early 20th century, with changes in the labour movement and the monarchy, women's suffrage and imperialism, a last royal wedding and a funeral.   The exhibition examined the political, social, economic and cultural developments in Brunswick and the German Empire at the turn of the century.    Starting from the wedding of a daughter of the Kaiser,  with a Guelph Duke in 1913,  it was a time of massive changes, with developments in mass production, the automobile industry and the electricification of home and the workplace.



Doll´s House Kitchen, with mass produced utensils.

The exhibition showed snippets of the life style of the people of Brunswick, and the new scientific developments, that made life easier for everyone. The invention of the electric light bulb, must have been a wonder of modern science when first switched on!  The automobile was to be seen for the first time on the streets and it was possible to contact anybody very quickly via the telegraph.   The photos here show just a few things that took my eye, and as there was so much to see.

Tight Corset, not really much of a modern development.

It´s no wonder the ladies fainted while wearing such undergarments.  Dressed in this garment, an evening out eating, drinking and dancing must have been an exhausting marathon.

German officer´s helmet for hot climes.

Several typically German helmets were on display, this one wore by an officer in a warm German outpost somewhere. 

Boys sailor suit with model, cast metal ships.

Ladies swim suit, ca 1920

Wednesday 26 June 2013

The Music Circus in the Domplatz

It is freezing cold here and I'm wearing a thick cardigan and socks again!  This time last Wednesday the temperature was 34c, this week it is 13c. Summer?  I found this draft for a blog hidden at the bottom of all my others, and I had forgotten all about it.  It shows an interesting occasion in the Domplatz that took place a couple of Sundays ago.  It was called "Music Circus," and was based on an idea by John Cage, the American composer, to invite music groups from around the city, and invite them to get together for a day and make music, any kind of music.   As you can guess, it was great fun, as all the groups were playing or singing something different all at once!  

The photo above shows the " Braunschweig Barrel Organ Players," who had to work really hard to keep the music going.  This Youtube clip will give you some idea of how they sounded.


Samba Band.

I'm not a great fan of samba bands, as the sound is too repetitive,often without a break or resolution of the rhythm.    The best band I ever heard was in the 2009 Devizes carnival, when a samba group played, but with sudden long pauses, on which your ear hung until the sound regenerated.   It was great fun, and prompted me to join a local group, only to find that we were all given earplugs before we played a single sound!   As a lover of the music of JS Bach, it was not quite for me.   The group above were in the "same sound, all the time, without a break," category!

The Traditional Brass Band

The young lady playing the drums. was also blowing a whistle, as when directed.  She was great fun to watch, and her whistle blowing was a feat of breath control and endurance!  This was a traditional German brass band, who once they's got into their rhythm,  were not easy to stop.  I thoroughly enjoyed their playing, and came away from the Domplatz realising once again, how music unites the world.   We all need to sing and dance and make music.

The Children making sounds department!

Several school choirs were in the Domplatz, either singing or making sounds.  One group of students were sitting at tables, beating out rythms on the table top with kitchen implements, and singing the while.   All good fun, and a good idea for a happening in Hillworth Park, Devizes one of these days, that's if it's not stifled in its infancy by "Health and Safety."

Monday 24 June 2013

"The Romans are coming."

On Sunday Braunschweig held a special day for children, when several roads through the city centre were closed to traffic, and were taken over by bouncy castles, swings, climbing frames, tree climbing, bow and arrows and all the other rough activities children find so interesting.   In a corner near the cathedral and the "Bath Rose,"  (seen in bloom to the left of the photo,) was a display of copies of a Roman soldier's armour, a breast plate, chain-mail vest, helmet and assorted hatchets, spears, pikes and arrows.   

It was a fascinating display, and I was able to try on the helmet, seen below, which was very heavy to wear.  Quite how a soldier stood up, yet alone fought in this gear, I do not know!   The photo above  shows the chest and shoulder armour, all beautifully crafted and complete with hooks to secure the several pieces to another.  I didn't try this on, I might add, although one of the men helping did offer to assist me!   I declined!  

A soldier's helmet, with assorted implements and a chain-mail vest far top right of photo.

I tried on the helmet, which was very heavy, and worn over a padded cap.  I didn't take a close up photo of the chain-mail vest, which I regret, and which weighed a ton and smelt of oil!   I was told the number of links needed to make a vest, and workshops full of workmen must have been continuously employed making the "underwear knitted with wire!"


The detail of the hooks and loops securing the back of the breast plate.

I would not like to have worn this, as once hooked inside you would feel trapped, until someone released you.  It must have been so uncomfortable to wear.   The men manning the display pointed out, that this armour was worn by big men with big muscles!  Certainly not for the ladies I think.

 A little boy tries on the helmet and holds a pike, while a chain-mail vest is held in front of him.


The poster in the background says, "The Romans are Coming," and is announcing an exhibition to be held in the State Museum in September, detailing life in the Roman army.  I'm sorry I will miss it, but I will be back in the UK by the end of August.



Saturday 22 June 2013

Europe's Last Rendezvous.


On Saturday morning I met a couple of friends from the DEG (Deutsch/English Gesellschaft) the partner group of the Bath/Braunschweig Twinning Group,  for a visit to a most interesting special exhibition in the "Schloss Museum."  Entitled "Europe's Last Rendezvous," the marriage of Victoria Luise of Prussia and Duke Ernest August of Braunschweig and Lüneburg on May 22nd 1913, it detailed the marriage arrangements, financial settlements, guest lists, dress code and all the paraphrenalia associated with a royal wedding.  The photo to the left shows the leaflet advertising the exhibition, as I could not take photos in the exhibition itself.

The marriage united two great German dynasties, the Welfen and Hohezollern families, and took place in the White Room in Schloss Berlin, with all the royals of Europe in attendance.  Just a few months later, when WW1 broke out, these cousins and family members were to become bitter enemies, hence the "last rendezvous" of the title.

After their marriage the couple lived in Schloss Braunschweig, where they produced four sons and one daughter, all destined to grow up and marry into the royal families of Europe.  There is further information about the families and the Duke and Duchess on Wikipedia, with so much more detail than I can write here.

The wedding feast in the White Room, Schloss Berlin, with small pictures of wedding gifts

A recreation of this table has been set up in the exhibition, showing some of the original silver dishes,  elegant china and cutlery and splendid glasses for champagne and wine.   What an occasion it must have been, with Czar Nicholas of Russia, George V of Great Britain and his wife Mary of Teck and many other cousins, aunts, uncles, parents and siblings in attendance.  

A copy of the guest list was available, although mostly impossible to read, as it was written in old German script.  Kaiser Wilhelm ll, the father of the bride, left detailed instructions of the financial settlements on his daughter (a huge amount even for today,) and for her new husband, and amounts for presents to all the guests.   How the other half lived!

 The bride and groom, the Duke and Duchess of Braunschweig.

The above photograph shows the couple, with clothing from another overlaid, and with a veil added.   No photography was allowed at the wedding, so many paintings and drawings of the occasion were later produced for postcard sales and momentos.   There is a film on YouTube of Viktoria Luise, and also the one that we saw today, of the couple arriving in Braunschweig after their honeymoon, to live in the Schloss, which can be seen below.

The Museum in Schloss Braunschweig. (note the discoloured original stonework.)

The building was severely damaged in the WW2, and completely demolished in the 1950´s.  Many of the stones and columns were buried and stored by people who had the presence of mind to realise that the building could be rebuilt in its old splendour.   Against much opposition, the facade was rebuilt around a modern interior, which was opened in 2008 as a shopping centre.

The city library is housed in one wing, with the museum to the left above.  Top right is the quadriga, a chariot with Brunonia, the state goddess of the Duchy of Braunschweig, driving a chariot and four magnificent horses.   The city can be viewed from a platform here.

Thursday 20 June 2013

Searching for Shady Corners in the Botanical Gardens.

The shady nook by the stream, where just out of shot to the left, sits a bronze statue of a naked lady, who allows the waterfall to flow almost over her toes.

It is so hot here, the temperature reached 34c on Wednesday, and today it will be a little cooler at 31c.  Not a lot of difference really.  On days like this,  I'm forced to ride the buses and trams, as to walk across the unshaded corn fields from Timmerlah to the tram stop, would mean certain gasping for breath and near dehydration.   I really hate the heat, as it makes me very lazy, and sends me searching for cool arbors and shady nooks and drinks of water.   

In the arbor looking out towards the herb garden.

My usual cool retreat is to the lovely Botanical Gardens in BS, where there are so many places to sit, read and remain cool.  Everyone else has the same idea of course, and someone had the audacity to be sitting in my favourite corner.  I had to find another seat, not quite so ideal, but it was cool, and a gentle breeze was blowing through the leaves above my head.

With the bronze plants in a cool corner.

While sitting here, looking out at the bronze daisies, I found a photo in the local paper of our choir's singing festival in Thune last Saturday evening.   My face can be clearly seen, but quite what song we are singing I cannot guess!  Fame at last!  

The white rose garden bathed in sunshine, seen from yet another arbor.

 I sat here last year, when the flowers were in full bloom, and the wafting scent of the roses was wonderful.   That was until an elderly man arrived, who sat down beside me and promptly lit his stinky, smoky pipe.   I decided to find myself another seat!

Tuesday 18 June 2013

Barn Singing Festival in Thune.

 Not us singing, but this is how we look.


Last Saturday evening, 15th June, (this blog is getting behind with the news) we sang, together with nine others choirs, in a singing festival in a barn in Thune, a little village outside BS.    The choirs were all members of the "Lower Saxony Choir Group," who have banded together to sing,  usually in barns or other interesting establishments.  Above you can see a ladies choir from Wenden, who are dressed in smart red jackets, just like those our choir wears.   This is how we must appear to the audience.   

We sang four songs, in German, Croatian, Latin and a further German song, but with an English refrain.   Our practise the previous Thursday evening had not been very good, but as usually happens, we all rose to the occasion on the night, and sang really well.

 The Thune men's choir were hosts for the evening.

The above photo shows the barn interior, with an orange curtained off area where beer and nice things to eat were being sold.    I drank water, (I can't concentrate on the music if I drink beer) and I avoided the delicious snacks for sale.   The evening had started with a rain storm, but later the sun reappeared, and lit up the orange curtaining into cloth of gold.   We all had a good time, and  this Thursday we will start rehearsing again in readiness for another concert later in the summer.


This interesting looking Thune band arrived to play in the second half of the evening.

The various choirs sang in the first half of the evening, and for the second half, a traditional German band arrived to play traditional music.   I would like to have stayed and listened to the band, but I was with friends in their car, so had to leave.

We make a quick dash in the rain into the barn.

We had a quick rehearsal in a bicycle shed before the concert, where we took cover from a heavy shower. The photo above shows us running back towards the barn, with umbrellas held high!  The weather has been so very good of late, and we were all a little peeved that it rained on our parade!

The beer and food stalls to refresh the singers and audience.

The big barn where we sang is in the background, with some newly built houses to the right.  A blue Wolter's beer stall stands to the right, and the mobile burger and currywurst stall stands left.  Ahh, I missed a currywurst that evening, what a shame.   The red jacketed lady standing in the centre of the photo, is one of our singers.


Sunday 16 June 2013

Senior's Day in the Domplatz.

Senior´s Day in the Domplatz.

Being a senior, I qualified for attendance at this big show of stalls, displaying activities for people aged 60 and over in Braunschweig.  I helped out on the "Hobby and Knowledge Exchange" stand with Hannah, where we gave out leaflets about the singing and sound making group that she runs.  A nice lady came up to me and asked about pottery classes, and I was able to tell her that I used to run such courses in England, but that was not of much use to her!  

A view from behind our stand, with a bowl of sweets to the right.

The sweets were a great attraction, I managed to suck three during my 1.5 hours helping on the stand.  Some yellow booklets about the various courses available for people lie on the table, together with some give away pens and other flyers.

The Hobby und Wissensbörse stand.

The group is a self help group, rather like our U3A´s, but run by Braunschweig City Council´s services for the elderly department.   There are many language groups offering French, English and Spanish, several choirs, philosophy, walking and hobby groups, to name but a few.    Unlike our groups in England,  the courses are located at various community centres around the city.   Last year I ran an English speaking walking group for the Hobbybörse.  We met every Wednesday outside the VW Hall, and enjoyed a walk around the Bürgerpark.

A large stage had been erected in the "Place of German Unity" opposite the town hall, where a very noisy band played loud music, together with displays of line dancing and other musical activities.   It was a nice day, although a little cooler of late, and with a nuisance wind blowing!  


Friday 14 June 2013

The Lions in Prince-Albrecht Park.

I enjoyed my first currywurst of the summer in the Stadtpark restaurant on Wednesday evening, when I met up with a group of English students, all keen to talk to me in English!   It's nice eating out in the evening, but oh dear, I simply cannot sleep well afterwards on a full stomach, and I spent Thursday morning feeling drowsy. I think I must be getting old!  

The Stadtpark Restaurant lies in Prince-Albrecht Park, a lovey park established in 1895 on a former military parade ground,  which had originally been developed in 1824 outside the boundaries of Brunswick, by Duke Charles ll.  Several decades later it was annexed to the city, and the park, designed by Fintelmann and funded by the regent of the Duchy of Brunswick, Prince Albrecht of Prussia was completed in 1905, and named "Prince Albrecht Park."  The city park restaurant was opened in March 1884, and has recently undergone major restoration work, and now looks splendid with its decorative woodwork and shingle tiles.  A Brunswick lion stands proudly in the foreground.

The bandstand with two lions.

The park has become enhanced and renovated in the last few decades, with a skating rink added in 1950.  In July 1981 the well system was restored, and the water cascade bought back to life.  From 2005 to 2008 new tree planting took place, with walkways restored and more seating added.  

Yet another lion.

The restaurant stands in a lovely location under the trees, and to the right in the photo is a "Maypole,"  well I think that's what its called, a place where various clubs and establishments can place their crests and shields.   The are a common sight in Germany, and Timmerlah has one standing in the middle of the village with the shields of local tradesmen.



Wednesday 12 June 2013

The Lost Paintings

A 19th century painting of the former wall decorations.

A corner in the cathedral has been curtained off, where a colourful display of wall paintings dating from the late 19th century during the time of Ernst August Duke of Braunschweig can be viewed.  Much of the wall painting and stained glass was destroyed during the National Socialist regime.  The photo above shows a painting of the former wall paintings,  and below are photographs of the reproductions now on display.  

Medieval and Renaissance wall painting still adorn the walls of and high ceiling of the high altar, but in the nave none have survived the destruction of WW2.  The whole space must have been very colourful in former times, rather like our English churches before the Victorians messed them about a bit! 

The decorated ceiling and frieze.

The marble font and other artifacts dating from the late 19th century.

A full history of the cathedral can be read in the link below:

  1. St. Blasii Cathedral and the Burgplatz - Stadt Braunschweig

    www.braunschweig.de/english/city/.../_dom.html

                                This Roman three-nave basilica was built in 1173 and is the burial place of Henry the Lion and Emperor Otto IV.

Monday 10 June 2013

"Verdi meets Wagner" in the Klassik im Bürgerpark.

 The Staatsorchester Braunschweig plays on the open air stage in the Bürgerpark.

Verdi and Wagner were born in 1813, and on Sunday the 200th anniversary of their births was celebrated with a concert of works by both composers.  On the stage sits the orchestra, with the conductor, baton in hand, silhouetted against the white of the arched canopy.

The concert began with Wagnerian choruses from The Flying Dutchman, Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg, Lohengrin and Tannhäuser!  The chorus of the Staatstheater sung out, together with two excellent soloists, and it was so good to hear Wagner´s music in the land of his birth.  

The second half of the concert consisted of choruses from La Traviata,  Il Travatore, Rigoletto Nabucco and Aida by Verdi.  Verdi´s music provided a playful contrast to dark Wagnerian drama.    As a finale,  the orchestra played, "The Ride of the Valkyries,"  a wild, rousing piece of music with which to end an excellent concert.

 Monika sits behind her trusty bike!


I met Monika at Europaplatz, and she had arrived early, and saved a good spot for us under the trees.  Although it was overcast, it was much too warm to sit out in the open.   Monika had strapped our chairs to the small rack on the back of her trusty bike, so we were able to enjoy a very comfortable afternoon in the park, with a beer each and a big packet of cheese and onion crisps to share!


 The stage viewed through "Wolter´s" beer stall. (What better place.)

Wolter´s brewery  in Braunschweig brews  the local beer, but unfortunately,  much like the beer brewed by Wadworth´s of Devizes, it does not agree with me!  I have found German alternatives of course,  all of which are quiet easy to drink.

The open air stage with a hot air balloon flying above.

Families and friends sat in the huge audience,  picnicing, drinking wine and relaxing on the grass.  The weather was overcast and not as warm as of late, but at least it did not rain.  A good day in the fresh air for all concerned.


Saturday 8 June 2013

Flower Stalls on a Sunny Domplatz.

Brunswick Cathedral,  where Caroline of Brunswick, the wife of English King George lV,  is interred in the vaults.

I took these photos this morning of the flower stalls in the Cathedral Square.  It was so sunny, and a great photo opportunity, with a multitude of flowers of all colours to picture.  At 11.50, the Cathedral bells began to ring, announcing the start of an "Organ Recital," which takes place every Saturday at 12 noon, and which I like to attend.  

Today´s works were by JS Bach, Gottfried Homilius and Johann Pachelbel.  By chance I met a friend just outside the doors, and we were able to sit together and listen to the wonderful music, as it resounded around the huge space that is the airy nave, with its sturdy columns.


 The "Bath Portal" centre, and left the "Bath Rose," climbing up the tower wall.  

A first rose was presented to the city some years ago, and unfortunately was not happy, and passed on to the rose garden in the sky.  This latest version is doing well, and has grown ever higher in the five years that I have been visiting.   There is a "Brunswick Rose" in the Victoria Gardens in Bath.

The sorrowing figure of a woman stands against the cathedral wall.

Almost centre, standing in the shadows against the cathedral wall, is the stone carved  monument dedicated to the hundreds of people killed during the bombing of Brunswick on the night of October 14th &15th 1944.    Part of the cathedral was badly damaged, and many medieval wall paintings destroyed, although those at the high altar survived.   In 2011, during our twinning visit, the Bishops of Bath and Brunswick laid red roses at her feet.